Pictures, boiler making and soldering by Trev Oughton

Materials :

2" x 16swg Copper tube for the boiler

16swg copper sheet for the ends

3/4" x 20swg for the flue tube

from Macc Models..see ME Suppliers

Pickling Crytals from GLR KENNIONS

Silver solder and flux from CUP ALLOYS

Boring the holes for the boiler bushes

Bushes from phosphor bronze soldered in first with a higher temperature solder [ eg CUP ALLOYS 1.5mm 438 650 - 720 degrees C ] than the end plates

Clean the boiler in an acid bath [ eg Dry Acid Pickling crystals 750grams from GLR KENNIONS LTD ] eg James Spooner's boiler

Boiler with bushes soldered in first with

and ends with flue tube assembled

Stamping the boiler for identification when tested.

It will need a support inside because after it is heated copper can easily be deformed

Marking the inside of the boiler barrel.

This is the depth the end plate will be located

The graver makes small "curls", called " Jewellers' Stitch", that will locate the end plate and stop it falling inside the barrel when soldering takes place

 

End plate ready for fitting : not too tight a fit, leaving room for the solder

Make silver solder "templates" for ends [ CUP ALLOYS 1.5mm 455

630-660 degrees C and EF FLUX 550-800 degrees C melting range ]

Fit the end plate in position, put in the ring of solder and then apply flux liberally. You don't want the flux to burn away before you have finished heating the joint.

Boiler fluxed and ready to solder

Solder just about to run into the spaces

Clean the boiler after each stage in an acid bath eg James Spooner's boiler

End soldered and cleaned

Being given a home test before going to a 16mm boiler tester for certification